FYI – My tow vehicle gets a respectable 20-25 miles per gallon when towing at the California legal speed limit of 55 mph. The total weight of our trailer (packed for camping) is 1120 pounds. We found this out last month when our buddy Frederick weighed it with special scales — the lightest fiberglass trailer he has ever weighed!
{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
*sigh*
Saw your new post with the new car towing your compact (you years to have a suv of sorts) – what model of car? A Honda? I too have a blue Compact Jr (and a Casita 13) I tow each with a 91 Honda civic hatchback (1500 cc – 98 hp) and have gotten as good as 30 mpg!! But usually about 26-27. I have installed “racing” shocks/springs and brakes when the car need new ones but got along well with stock before. Glad to see the new tow! I have a long story of how the trailer websites treated my posting of towing with a Honda!!!
Fair winds and following seas,
Dennis
Wow, I never realized how light your trailer is. That’s awesome! Maybe I should be looking into buying and remodeling something like this, instead of the T umbleweed XS house I’m thinking about now.
Hi Alex,
It’s all tradeoffs — our trailer is super light, making it more flexible (it even fits in our garage!) but I wouldn’t spend as much time & money as I would a Tumbleweed House in renovation/remodeling. It’s definitely got a less “permanent” feel than a stick-built home on wheels.
Hi Dennis,
I’ve found the big difference is in the terrain — flat terrain it’s a cinch, but up and down any kind of hills it’s a bit tougher. Mine is a newer model Mitsubishi. Needs new shocks and a general tuneup. Deferred maintenance…
Thank you for your Dec. 13 note. If you are buying new shocks anyway, you might look into ‘variable rate shocks’ (I bought Monroe) they have coils in spiral shape that results in “normal” tension at the beginning (first 1-1.5 inches) then ever increasing tension after that. The result is normal ride (soft) when you have no weight on, then ever increasing spring tension as you add weight. It is perfect for trailer pulling ~ soft when you are just driving, then stiff when you pull. Also, “high performance” or ‘racing’ brakes are also a great bargain – not much more in cost (installation is the same as cheap, low performance) but huge improvement when hard use, like down a mountain, or city traffic, or the ultimate ‘panic stop’ we all dread.
One last rambling thought – trailer brakes are cheap! I know it sounds expensive and complicated, but at places like Northern Tools (have great range of build it yourself trailer stuff) you can buy a two wheel package that bolts right up for a couple hundred. With this small addition you can stop BETTER than the car without the trailer. Well, maybe I get a bit over-enthused, but if you ever get on ice (me -Iowa) being able to stop the trailer before the car is oh, so, nice.
Enuf.
Fair Winds, and Following Seas in your new year ~
dennis
Awesome, thanks for the tips!
I picked up a 1973 Compact Jr. today. In good shape; needs a scrubbing. i tow with a 2008 Ranger 4X4, 4 liter and it’s almost like it’s not there.
Congratulations! If you’re ever in SoCal contact me!
Have a 1972 Compact Jr for sale. Contact me at drpepper139@roadrunner.com
my husband and I are looking for a compact fiberglass camper to restore and travel to see our military son and family. We live in Ohio and will travel in Ohio, Michigan and Indiana area. Must have valid title and good frame. We are interested in a Compact Jr.,trailorboat, miti lite, hi lo, trail west campster, Hunter or any 13 ft fiberglass.
It would really be best for us to find a camper that fold down as small as possible.
Thanks for anyone that responds.